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Like a number of others, I managed to snag a low hanging branch with my wind sensor (anemometer). The branch won the tussle. After replacing the sensor, I determined not to lose another one, at least not easily. Here's how to make a simple cage for the anemometer so it's more likely to stay where it belongs. You should know that you can't just replace the "propeller blades"; you will need to get a whole unit, with wires and all attached, from the manufacturer. That means removing the old one, cutting it out of all that Dicor, cutting the wires, cleaning up the roof and then installing the new one. You'll need to cut and splice the wires coming from the control in the cupboard above the microwave, screw the new unit in place and then caulk it all liberally with Dicor. Doing all that once is enough! If you construct one of these guards, you may never have to replace the anemometer! I fabricated a cage for the new sensor using some 1/2" springy aluminum strapping (looks like T6061 quality to me - stuff I used to use to make amateur radio antennas). I purchased it at Lowes, so it should be easy to find - look for thin aluminum stock 1/2" x 1/16" x 4'. Be sure to drill holes in the bar stock just big enough to freely pass the hardware you have available for the installation. I HIGHLY recommend that you use stainless steel hardware. Unfortunately, I didn't measure the exact length of the 2 pieces of aluminum, but the picture should make it easy to duplicate - the 2 pieces I cut with a hacksaw are each about 22" long (make the inner/lower one about 1/2" shorter than the outer/top one). I bent the ends out 90 degrees (about 1/2" tabs) in a vise, after drilling holes in the ends and in the middle (you can use a big pair of pliers if you don't have a vise but this isn't as precise). The middle is fastened with a 1/2" #10 stainless bolt and a nylok nut - don't drill the middle hole any bigger than needed since you'll weaken the strap more than necessary (don't bend right in the middle - see the picture below). Snugly tighten the center bolt with the Nyloc nut (so it can still rotate) and use the bent cage as a template to mark the pilot holes to be drilled in the roof. Position the cage so it doesn't interfere with the rotating anemometer. I used 3/4" #8 wood screws for the roof fastenings and covered all hardware that penetrated the roof liberally with Dicor (drill small 1/16" pilot holes for the 4 mounting screws, then put a dab of Dicor on each pilot hole and coat the screw threads - remember, the luan plywood is thin!). So far, I've successfully survived a couple more low branch encounters going into a park in MO. Hopefully, this idea will help others as well. Click the link below to see a picture of the finished cage (use your browser's back arrow to return here): Picture of completed and installed guard If you need more information, feel free to contact me using the information available on this web site. Or email me: dave dot rypma at gmail dot com. Dave Rypma 2006 SYG #4078

Dave Rypma
'06 SYG #4078
Cummins ISL 400